Exploring the Coromandel Peninsula

We have stayed in the town of Thames for the last two nights. It is at the southern end of the Coromandel Peninsula which we explored in a clockwise direction yesterday. The long Main Street of the town looks like many other country towns – a long length of shops, pubs and businesses. However, when you get back into the parallel street behind it, you come into a world relating to the mining history of this area. Old buildings such as the School of Mines, The Union Meeting Hall and Courthouse take you back to the 19th Century.

Traces of gold were found around Coromandel in 1842. A small find was made in 1852 and a larger find in August 1867 which caused a modest rush. The longer lasting Thames goldfield was proclaimed in 1867; in Grahamstown near Thames, and in Shortland in the southern part of Thames. These three towns have now merged together. The gold field produced £18,000 worth in 1867 and £150,000 worth in 1868 from underground mines. From 1867 to 1924 the total value was £7,178,000. The old Assay Office in Coramandel Town is a remnant from thiose days.

Much of the Peninsula is covered in bush. The Coromandel Range forms the spine, with the Moehau Range at the northern end, providing the highest point at nearly 900 metres. Although the peninsula is relatively close to large centres of population such as Auckland, its rugged nature means that much of it is relatively isolated, and the interior and northern tip are both largely undeveloped and sparsely inhabited. Numerous small islands and island groups lie offshore, such as the Motukawao Islands to the northwest, the Aldermen Islands and Slipper Island to the southeast, and the Mercury Islands to the northeast.

The peninsula shows considerable signs of past volcanism which was highly active during the Miocene and Pliocene geological periods. I remember studying these periods in my high school geology lessons and know that they are quite recent in a geologicmal time frame. Geothermal activity is still present on the peninsula, with hot springs in several places, notably at Hot Water Beach (in the central east coast between Whitianga and Tairua) and near Te Aroha.

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We noticed one difference along the way – the colour of the beaches. On the west coast they have black sand and shingles. Gnarled trees seem to precariously hang on to the shoreline.

On the eastern side, the beaches are longer and have white sand.

This area has been inhabited by Maori for centuries. We found these statues in Coromandel Town.  They are traditional Māori wood carvings known as Toi Whakairo. Carved figures such as these represent ancestors or deities and are a significant part of Māori culture and New Zealand’s identity. 

Along the nwest coast. we found ‘Hot Water Beach’. There werer lots of people around and they were all walking towards the water carrying a spade. The spades were used to dig a wallow in the sand. It would fill with hot thermal water and everyone could enjoy a self-made hot pool.

Fortunately, the wet weather of the day before had cleared and we were able to see some long distance views from the high lookout points.

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There has been some wild weather on the North Island with heavy rain, floods and road road closures. Today, Wellington has copped a lot of it with all flights and ferries canceled. Fortunately, we seem to be in little pocket that is unaffected.

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