We expected that today would be an easy drive from Whangarei to Kaitaia in Far North New Zealand. It was certainly an intersting day in which we spent lots of time at some special places along the way. We expected to arrive at or overnight destination by mid afternoon but we didn’t arrrive until after 5.00 pm
Our first stop was at the little town of Russell. It is an historic spot, dating from the early 19th century. In the 1830s it was a lawless trading centre where whalers, seafarers and merchants mixed with adventurers, deserters and escaped convicts from Australia. Russell holds an important place in New Zealand’s history, being the country’s first seaport, its first European settlement and New Zealand’s first capital. The town’s streets retain their original layout and names from 1843, and many of its historic buildings can still be visited today. New Zealand’s first licensed hotel, bar and restaurant, The Duke of Marlborough is located on the waterfront. Along the Esplanade, facing the sea. along with a number of original buildings that are set behind white picket fences. It’s a very charming town.
Russell is located in the Bay of Islands, which is one of the most popular fishing, sailing and tourist destinations in the country. It became renowned when the American author, Zane Grey made it famous for big game fishing in the 1930s. It includes over 140 islands. Driving distances can be long but they are reduced by a couple ferries that operate every ten minutes between key towns. We used one when we moved on rom Russell to the Wzaitangi Treat grounds, our second main stop.
The Treaty Grounds are probably New Zealand’s most historic place. After a series of wars between the British and Maori a treaty was signed that not only resulted in peace but also became New Zealand’s founding document for a multi-racial society. It was, in affect, the “birth of the nation”.
It’s easy to get a feel for what New Zealand is all about as you walk through some native bush across boardwalks to see Maori artefacts and British influence combined together. There are five main pieces of infrastructure see that connect the events of 1840 with today
1. Te Whare Rūnanga – The Carved Meeting House
To symbolise the partnership between the British Crown and the Maori, a stunning traditional Maori meeting house was built facing the Treaty House. The meeting house is impressive and shows all the power of the Maori culture through carefully carved timber. It is also the location of scheduled Maori performances throughout each day.
2. The Treaty House
Also known as “the residency”, the treaty house was the base of the British government of New Zealand from 1833 to 1840. James Busby represented the crown from there and conducted his business from his parlour. Today you can visit the house with its accurate interior from the 1800s house and see more about the ins and outs of the British colonisation.
3. The Flagstaff
To mark the exact emplacement where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed, a huge flagstaff has been erected. The flagstaff normally flies four different flags, one being the United Tribes of New Zealand’s flag, the second being the British Union flag, then the New Zealand Ensign flag, and lastly the New Zealand flag flies on top.
4. Ceremonial Waka – The War Canoes
The world’s largest Maori ceremonial war canoe is displayed in the waka house. Impressively sized (6 tons dry and 76 paddlers minimum), the fully carved canoe is launched once a year on 6-February to celebrate Waitangi Day.
5. Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi
The place to ultimately learn all about this time in New Zealand’s history is at The Museum of Waitangi. This modern museum is full of fascinating Maori and European artifacts, art and some short movies to watch a re-enactment of the Treaty of Waitangi signing.
At a little town of KeriKeri, we found the ‘Stone Store’. It was built in 1832 and is now New Zealand’s oldest intact stone building and its earliest surviving warehouse.
Otherwise, our route took us through green rolling hills and valleys as we made our way to New Zealand’s northern-most town although there were occassional points of interest like the Hururu Falls. This small, but wide, waterfall is on the Waitangi River where it feeds into a significant lagoon that reaches out into the Bay of Islands.
